First try at Awlwood

Post your photos of Repairs and/or Outfitting projects

GB 36 Europa

Postby Mike Massingill » Wed Jan 11, 2017 10:49 am

These is not really any transom to do.

This boat is a factory fiberglass deck boat, single screw.

The stern is all glass, no teak.

So it is very low maintenance and had the cleanest engine room I had seen, with lots of room.

Will buff out all the fiberglass once wood work is redone.

The stern name was on with vinyl.
I have made a new teak name board to match the bridge boards.
We are soaking it, then will steam form it to fit the stern.
Does not need much, about 1/2".

Once it matches I will apply the name and screw it on.
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Postby Orin Guidry » Mon Jan 30, 2017 8:14 am

These are beautiful results. Does anyone have experience using Awl Wood on vertical surfaces and/or applying it outside?
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Postby Mike Massingill » Tue Feb 07, 2017 2:47 pm

I am refinishing a teak and mahogany step box for the boat. It was really rough, but I thought I could use the practice, since the sides were near vertical. Will post pictures soon.

It does not run but can sag if applied too heavy, since it tends to be thick and flows out easy. It is not forgiving, but can be sanded off and reapplied.

It does set up quickly above 75F, so it needs to be slightly thinned.

I shot my bridge wheel on the last two coats. Really came out well.

The trick to spraying is to know when to stop. Sometimes you just have to set the gun down and walk away when you get the finish you want.
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Postby Mike Massingill » Wed Mar 08, 2017 6:16 pm

Finished Step
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Postby Mike Massingill » Wed Mar 08, 2017 6:19 pm

Flying bridge Steering wheel.
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Postby Mike Massingill » Wed Mar 08, 2017 6:28 pm

My other big ticker project was the radio box/helm access panel.

Mine was aluminum and corroded. It is screwed and glued in and a bear to get out.

The original extrusions are three pieces.
One main piece has the flange and tracks for the doors.
The next has a clips on it to cover the screws, which are covered by a snap on piece.

I made it out of teak in two pieces, glued together.
Then I cut the tracks out of black teflon on a table saw.
They will glued in after it is finished.

They are shown mirror of each other.

The dimensions are also shown.
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Postby FrugalWife » Fri Mar 10, 2017 6:19 pm

Oh man, I wish I could have sent you my flying bridge wheel!!!! Fantastic results, congratulations!
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Postby Mike Massingill » Fri Mar 10, 2017 9:04 pm

Secret is scraping it with a pointed scraper, then sanding smooth.
Took three days to get it ready to paint.

I have to admit, I really thought I screwed it up.
First pass it looked like crap.
But I sanded it down after three coats and shot it with a paint gun for the final two and it laid down really well.
It only has three coats on it, but I was scared I might screw it up so I stopped there.

The bridge is under canvas when we are not on the boat, so it really gets little UV, should be fine for a couple of years.

The only issue with Awlwood is it is so reflective, it shows EVERY imperfection.

I just pile it on for three or four coats then sand it really smooth and flat and have had good luck spraying the finish coat so far.

When I start the trim I will not be able to spray it, so the weather has to be perfect.
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Awlwood

Postby gb3294 » Mon Jul 31, 2017 3:59 am

Awlwood is indeed amazing stuff. Did all my bright work last year, stripped 5 years of Cetol off, sanded and applied red Awlwood primer. Then 5 coats of the clear. Amazing results, and as stated below by others, I used throw away foam brushes. This year I am working on the transom, just started on it, stripped to bare wood, and applied the red primer. With a few drops of red primer into the clear coat, the effect is now like mahogany, which I like better, but that obviously is a personal preference. Will post pictures once done, need to take a two week break from the awesome Seattle weather for work.....Will go on as soon as I am back, cannot wait! Success everyone and when sailing in the beautiful Pacific Northwest, enjoy this amazing summer!!
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What color primer?

Postby Dex » Mon Oct 23, 2017 1:57 am

Hi All,

I have about to start muy brightwork refinish using Awlwood. Does anyone have photos showing the differance between finished Yellow or Red primer? I am leaning towrds the Yellow from what i have seen online.

Dec
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Postby Mike Massingill » Sat Oct 28, 2017 10:53 am

With Awlwood you can mix the colored primers. So you have red, yellow, and clear. Doing it over I might mix the yellow and red.
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Thanks Mike

Postby Dex » Sun Oct 29, 2017 11:07 am

I had planned to use just the Yellow as loved your results. May do that and add red to the early gloss coats if it needs to be "richened" up a bit.
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Re: First try at Awlwood

Postby Mike Massingill » Wed Jul 03, 2019 7:59 pm

Follow-up report.

It has been almost three years in the Florida sun, and the AwlWood product has held up very well.

It does have a problem at joints, and can pull apart and allow staining of the wood.
I will post pictures later of a couple of spots that I need to repair.

Will sand down this summer and apply three or more maintenance coats, I am two years late on those.

The steps above are still identical, as are the sign boards. I won't add material to the steps, but will scuff and spray the sign boards.
Radio box, compass, and helm wheel are still perfect.

Very happy with the product.
They offer a Satin now, so I am going to pull my cockpit and salon doors and refinish the interior with sprayed Satin.
Will also do the trim around the inside door frames in satin, since it can get a lot of wear and this stuff is hard.
If is just the cats-ass I will strip the floor and do them also, not sure if gloss or satin.
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Re: First try at Awlwood

Postby kainebob » Fri Aug 09, 2019 7:56 am

Is the Awleood similar to Bristol? 2 part? Pot life?
Bob: "...Nothing's free in Waterworld..."
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Re: First try at Awlwood

Postby Bob Lowe » Fri Aug 09, 2019 10:20 am

To stop the problem at the joints, you will have to re-glue the joint. Either force slow cure epoxy into the joint or take apart & glue. No finish can hold together a loose joint.
Good luck,
Bob Lowe
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